{"id":370237,"date":"2026-11-14T18:15:46","date_gmt":"2026-11-14T17:15:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/legrandcontinent.eu\/fr\/?post_type=sunday&#038;p=370237"},"modified":"2026-11-14T18:28:12","modified_gmt":"2026-11-14T17:28:12","slug":"le-mets-des-dieux","status":"publish","type":"sunday","link":"https:\/\/legrandcontinent.eu\/fr\/dimanches\/le-mets-des-dieux\/","title":{"rendered":"Le mets des dieux"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<div class=\"sunday-recipe-list font-sans mx-auto md:w-6\/10 lg:w-5\/7 xl:w-5\/9\">\n\n    \n                    <h2 class=\"pb-3 mb-4 border-b border-black article-label\">\n                Ingr\u00e9dients&#160;:             <\/h2>\n        \n                    <ul class=\"mb-6 font-sans text-xs md:grid md:grid-cols-3\">\n                                                                                                    <li class=\" leading-4 pb-2 md:pt-0 md:pb-3\">\n                            Foie de porc                        <\/li>\n                                                                                                                            <li class=\" leading-4 pb-2 md:pt-0 md:pb-3\">\n                            Saucisse                        <\/li>\n                                                                                                                            <li class=\"mb-2 md:mb-0 leading-4 pb-2 md:pt-0 md:pb-3\">\n                            Filets de volaille ou de gibier \u00e0 plumes                        <\/li>\n                                                                                                                            <li class=\" leading-4 pb-2 md:pt-0 md:pb-3\">\n                            Ris d&rsquo;agneau                        <\/li>\n                                                                                                                            <li class=\" leading-4 pb-2 md:pt-0 md:pb-3\">\n                            Rognons de veau                        <\/li>\n                                                                                                                            <li class=\"mb-2 md:mb-0 leading-4 pb-2 md:pt-0 md:pb-3\">\n                            Un oeuf                         <\/li>\n                                                                                                                            <li class=\" leading-4 pb-2 md:pt-0 md:pb-3\">\n                            Baies de geni\u00e8vre                        <\/li>\n                                                                                                                            <li class=\" leading-4 pb-2 md:pt-0 md:pb-3\">\n                            Noix de muscade                         <\/li>\n                                                                                                                            <li class=\"mb-2 md:mb-0 leading-4 pb-2 md:pt-0 md:pb-3\">\n                            Poivre noir                        <\/li>\n                                                                    <\/ul>\n        \n    \n    \n    \n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>M\u00eame si l\u2019homme contemporain a r\u00e9duit les exigences des dieux \u2013 il n\u2019y a plus, en effet, les \u00ab&#160;h\u00e9catombes&#160;\u00bb dont Hi\u00e9ron II nous a laiss\u00e9 un autel impressionnant \u00e0 Syracuse\u00a0\u2013, les mets des dieux existent toujours. Et pourtant, nous les savourons quelquefois sans m\u00eame savoir que ces nourritures \u00e9taient faites pour nous mettre en contact avec les \u00eatres sup\u00e9rieurs. Elles le permettaient notamment lorsqu\u2019elles \u00e9taient consomm\u00e9es durant les f\u00eates qui leur \u00e9taient d\u00e9di\u00e9es.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Les pr\u00e9parations culinaires conservent un rituel pr\u00e9cis, presque une liturgie. D\u2019une g\u00e9n\u00e9ration \u00e0 l\u2019autre, les recettes sont transmises comme un livre d\u2019heures. Cette dimension symbolique est fondamentale. L\u2019id\u00e9e de r\u00e9duire la nourriture \u00e0 une sorte de r\u00e9ponse au besoin de manger&nbsp;\u2013&nbsp;s\u2019agissant surtout du dimanche, des jours f\u00e9ri\u00e9s et des repas en famille&nbsp;\u2013&nbsp;est une profanation qui confirme du reste, <em>ex negativo<\/em>, le caract\u00e8re sacr\u00e9 de la f\u00eate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"text-and-quote flex flex-wrap font-serif text-xs leading-6 xl:text-sm xl:leading-6 md:flex-row-reverse\">\n    <div class=\"relative w-full mb-5 text-3xs md:mb-0 md:flex md:self-stretch md:flex-col md:justify-center md:mr-1\/10 md:w-2\/10 lg:mr-1\/7 lg:w-1\/7 xl:mr-1\/9 xl:w-2\/9 md:pl-3 lg:pl-6\">\n                    <div>\n                <figure class=\"flex flex-wrap items-center w-full md:block md:space-y-2\">\n                                        <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"block shrink-0 w-1\/2 lg:w-full\" src=\"https:\/\/legrandcontinent.eu\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2026\/11\/salsiccia.png\" alt=\"\">\n                    <div class=\"block pl-4 md:pl-0 w-7\/10\">\n                                                                    <\/div>\n                <\/figure>\n            <\/div>\n            <\/div>\n    <div class=\"md:w-5\/10 lg:w-4\/7 xl:w-4\/9 space-y-3\">\n                    <p>Quels sont donc les aliments les plus pr\u00e9cieux des dieux, arriv\u00e9s jusqu\u2019\u00e0 nous&#160;? La mythologie nous confirme que Amalth\u00e9e, d\u00e9esse nourrice des dieux, leur offre le <em>Nectar<\/em> et l&rsquo;<em>Ambroisie<\/em>. La premi\u00e8re est une boisson qui unit le vin et le miel, selon la vulgate de la tradition, \u00e0 partir d\u2019Hom\u00e8re. La seconde est un aliment et un onguent, semblable \u00e0 \u00ab&#160;une huile divine, fleurant la rose&#160;\u00bb. D\u2019autres savants pensent que l&rsquo;ambroisie \u00e9tait de la \u00ab&#160;graisse liqu\u00e9fiable (moelle et gras), avec comme alternative la s\u00e8ve v\u00e9g\u00e9tale qui est son analogue, l&rsquo;huile d&rsquo;olive.&#160;\u00bb<\/p>\n            <\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous ne sommes pas loin du vrai si Rabelais, pour nous introduire \u00e0 son voyage de sagesse de \u00ab&#160;haute gresse&#160;\u00bb, nous invite \u00e0 consid\u00e9rer la valeur essentielle de la \u00ab&#160;mouelle&#160;\u00bb&#160;: \u00ab&#160;Rien plus qu\u2019un peu de mouelle. Vray est que ce peu, plus est delicieux que le beaucoup de toutes aultres pour ce que la mouelle est aliment elabour\u00e9 \u00e0 perfection de nature, comme dict Galen [3.\u00a0facu. natural.\u00a0&amp; 11.\u00a0de usu particu.]\u00a0\u00c0 l\u2019exemple d\u2019icelluy vo\u2019convient estre saiges pour fleurer sentir &amp; estimer ces beaux livres de haulte gresse, legiers au prochaz&#160;: &amp; hardiz \u00e0 la rencontre. Puis pour curieuse leczon, &amp; meditation frequente rompre l\u2019os, &amp; sugcer la substantificque\u00a0mouelle.&#160;\u00bb (<em>Gargantua, Prologue de l\u2019auteur, <\/em>1535).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Chez les \u00ab&#160;cannibales&#160;\u00bb, mais pas seulement, le fait de p\u00e9n\u00e9trer \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur des os et des visc\u00e8res signifie certainement une intimit\u00e9 qui nourrit et qui absorbe la force et l\u2019essence m\u00eame de l\u2019animal ou de l\u2019homme dont on s\u2019empare. On peut penser par exemple au rite de \u00ab&#160;manger le c\u0153ur&#160;\u00bb dans la tradition du Moyen \u00c2ge, narr\u00e9 dans la l\u00e9gende de Guilhem de Cabestany ou dans le <em>D\u00e9cam\u00e9ron\u00a0<\/em>(IV, 9) de Boccace. Par bonheur, nos os \u00e0 la moelle ne sortent pas de cette tradition&#160;; et le sel de Gu\u00e9rande suffit \u00e0 leur donner la juste saveur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sublimes ou tragiques, ces nourritures trop divines ne sont pas l\u2019apanage ordinaire de l\u2019homme commun. Je me tourne donc du c\u00f4t\u00e9 des dieux qui se contentent de l\u2019<em>omentum<\/em>&#160;: ce repli du p\u00e9ritoine relie les visc\u00e8res entre eux, et contient des vaisseaux sanguins et du tissu adipeux\u00a0\u2013\u00a0autrement dit, des r\u00e9ticules l\u00e9gers de graisse. Cet <em>omentum <\/em>autrefois br\u00fbl\u00e9 pour honorer les dieux, enveloppe aujourd\u2019hui nos <em>cr\u00e9pinettes <\/em>pour leur donner forme, les prot\u00e9ger et les enrichir de saveur. C\u2019est avec ce mets typique de la France, de la Suisse occidentale et du Pi\u00e9mont, que l\u2019on c\u00e9l\u00e8bre la Saint-Martin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>La recette<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>La pr\u00e9paration r\u00e9unit ce qui reste d\u2019un grand repas&#160;: les miettes d\u2019un adieu. On m\u00e9lange donc du foie de porc, de la saucisse, des filets de volaille ou de gibier \u00e0 plumes (perdreau, b\u00e9casse, pigeon) finement hach\u00e9s, du ris d&rsquo;agneau, et des rognons de veau. Bien \u00e9videmment, pour assaisonner toutes ces saveurs, il faut ajouter du jaune d\u2019\u0153uf, des baies de geni\u00e8vre, de la noix de muscade et du poivre noir. Personnellement, j\u2019y ajoute \u00e9galement un peu de moelle. Le tout bien envelopp\u00e9 dans l\u2019<em>omentum.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"text-and-quote flex flex-wrap font-serif text-xs leading-6 xl:text-sm xl:leading-6 md:flex-row\">\n    <div class=\"relative w-full mb-5 text-3xs md:mb-0 md:flex md:self-stretch md:flex-col md:justify-center md:ml-1\/10 md:w-2\/10 lg:ml-1\/7 lg:w-1\/7 xl:ml-1\/9 xl:w-2\/9 md:pr-3 lg:pr-6\">\n                    <div>\n                <figure class=\"flex flex-wrap items-center w-full md:block md:space-y-2\">\n                                        <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"block shrink-0 w-1\/2 lg:w-full\" src=\"https:\/\/legrandcontinent.eu\/fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2026\/11\/uova.png\" alt=\"\">\n                    <div class=\"block pl-4 md:pl-0 w-7\/10\">\n                                                                    <\/div>\n                <\/figure>\n            <\/div>\n            <\/div>\n    <div class=\"md:w-5\/10 lg:w-4\/7 xl:w-4\/9 space-y-3\">\n                    <p>Mon ami Giorgio Tesino Nasini, grand chef et savant interpr\u00e8te de la tradition pi\u00e9montaise\u00a0\u2013\u00a0je vous conseille en passant, son merveilleux livre <em>Il buongustaio piemontese<\/em>\u00a0\u2013\u00a0me fait remarquer que les <em>cr\u00e9pinettes <\/em>s\u2019appellent chez nous, en patois, <em>grive. <\/em>Cela correspond \u00e0 l\u2019italien <em>allodole <\/em>(alouettes). Comme si, encore une fois, on cherchait des noms et des mets pour monter au ciel, et s\u2019approcher des dieux\u00a0\u2013\u00a0le dimanche, du moins.<\/p>\n            <\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Il s\u2019agit bien d\u2019aller \u00ab&#160;chercher l\u2019\u00e2me&#160;\u00bb par les arts d\u00e9licats de la cuisine. C\u2019est ainsi qu\u2019en langue italienne, on appelle <em>animelle<\/em> (\u00ab&#160;tendres \u00e2mes&#160;\u00bb), la glande thymus&#160;: l\u2019un des abats les plus exquis et les plus petits.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>On peut aussi \u00e9voquer le <em>Ba<\/em>&#160;: chez les anciens \u00c9gyptiens, une \u00e2me-<em>Ba\u00a0\u2013\u00a0<\/em>sous la forme d\u2019un oiseau \u00e0 t\u00eate humaine, s&rsquo;envolant d\u2019un cadavre\u00a0\u2013 accompagne les dieux lors de leurs voyages \u00e0 bord des barques c\u00e9lestes.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Cr\u00e9pinette, cr\u00e9pinette, <\/em>arros\u00e9e d\u2019un bon <em>Nebbiolo <\/em>des Langhe, conduis-nous aux barques c\u00e9lestes de nos dieux et de nos r\u00eaves\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Des h\u00e9catombes aux cr\u00e9pinettes de la Saint-Martin, l\u2019un des grands humanistes europ\u00e9ens raconte l\u2019histoire des nourritures sacr\u00e9es, o\u00f9 la cuisine devient l\u2019art de retrouver l\u2019\u00e2me des choses. Par Carlo Ossola<\/p>\n","protected":false},"featured_media":370239,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":true,"_trash_the_other_posts":false,"_yoast_wpseo_estimated-reading-time-minutes":4,"_lgc_tts_source":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[],"staff":[5094],"editorial_format":[4915],"week":[5256],"geo":[],"class_list":["post-370237","sunday","type-sunday","status-publish","hentry","staff-carlo-ossola","editorial_format-cuisine"],"acf":{"_thumbnail_id":370239,"excerpt":"Des h\u00e9catombes aux cr\u00e9pinettes de la Saint-Martin, l\u2019un des grands humanistes europ\u00e9ens raconte l\u2019histoire des nourritures sacr\u00e9es, o\u00f9 la cuisine devient l\u2019art de retrouver l\u2019\u00e2me des choses. Par Carlo Ossola","display_date":"","new_abstract":true},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.1.1 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Le mets des dieux | Le Grand Continent<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/legrandcontinent.eu\/fr\/dimanches\/le-mets-des-dieux\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Le mets des dieux | Le Grand Continent\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Des h\u00e9catombes aux cr\u00e9pinettes de la Saint-Martin, l\u2019un des grands humanistes europ\u00e9ens raconte l\u2019histoire des nourritures sacr\u00e9es, o\u00f9 la cuisine devient l\u2019art de retrouver l\u2019\u00e2me des choses. 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