{"id":354136,"date":"2026-08-22T14:49:05","date_gmt":"2026-08-22T12:49:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/legrandcontinent.eu\/fr\/?post_type=sunday&#038;p=354136"},"modified":"2026-08-22T14:51:50","modified_gmt":"2026-08-22T12:51:50","slug":"le-gout-violet-dodessa","status":"publish","type":"sunday","link":"https:\/\/legrandcontinent.eu\/fr\/dimanches\/le-gout-violet-dodessa\/","title":{"rendered":"\u00a0Le go\u00fbt violet d\u2019Odessa"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<div class=\"sunday-recipe-list font-sans mx-auto md:w-6\/10 lg:w-5\/7 xl:w-5\/9\">\n\n    \n                    <h2 class=\"pb-3 mb-4 border-b border-black article-label\">\n                Ingr\u00e9dients pour 4 personnes&#160;:             <\/h2>\n        \n                    <ul class=\"mb-6 font-sans text-xs md:grid md:grid-cols-3\">\n                                                                                                    <li class=\" leading-4 pb-2 md:pt-0 md:pb-3\">\n                            4 aubergines                         <\/li>\n                                                                                                                            <li class=\" leading-4 pb-2 md:pt-0 md:pb-3\">\n                            1 oignon                        <\/li>\n                                                                                                                            <li class=\"mb-2 md:mb-0 leading-4 pb-2 md:pt-0 md:pb-3\">\n                            14 cl d\u2019eau                        <\/li>\n                                                                                                                            <li class=\" leading-4 pb-2 md:pt-0 md:pb-3\">\n                            Huile d&rsquo;olive                        <\/li>\n                                                                                                                            <li class=\" leading-4 pb-2 md:pt-0 md:pb-3\">\n                            Ail                        <\/li>\n                                                                                                                            <li class=\"mb-2 md:mb-0 leading-4 pb-2 md:pt-0 md:pb-3\">\n                            Thym                        <\/li>\n                                                                                                                            <li class=\" leading-4 pb-2 md:pt-0 md:pb-3\">\n                            Laurier                        <\/li>\n                                                                                                                            <li class=\" leading-4 pb-2 md:pt-0 md:pb-3\">\n                            Sel                        <\/li>\n                                                                                                                            <li class=\"mb-2 md:mb-0 leading-4 pb-2 md:pt-0 md:pb-3\">\n                            Poivre                         <\/li>\n                                                                    <\/ul>\n        \n    \n    \n    \n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Il fait moins chaud et c\u2019est presque la rentr\u00e9e, on peut enfin parler pur\u00e9e. Pur\u00e9e d\u2019aubergines qui plus est.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Mais n\u2019ayez crainte, pour ce num\u00e9ro odessite, nous nous en remettons \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9crivain Valentin Kata\u00efev pour op\u00e9rer un tour de magie parfait par temps pluvieux&#160;: transformer la pur\u00e9e d\u2019aubergines \u00ab&#160;\u00e0 la fa\u00e7on d\u2019Odessa&#160;\u00bb en madeleine.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>N\u00e9 \u00e0 Odessa en 1897 et mort \u00e0 Moscou en 1986, Valentin Kata\u00efev a commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 \u00e9crire de la po\u00e9sie et des nouvelles avant 1917. Cinq ans apr\u00e8s la r\u00e9volution, il s\u2019installe \u00e0 Moscou o\u00f9 il m\u00e8ne une carri\u00e8re de journaliste et d\u2019\u00e9crivain sovi\u00e9tique. Avant de satisfaire aux crit\u00e8res du r\u00e9alisme socialiste, il a publi\u00e9 des r\u00e9cits et du th\u00e9\u00e2tre pleins de fantaisie et d\u2019humour.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Maintenant que les pr\u00e9sentations sont faites, savez-vous ce que sont les \u00ab&#160;bluettes&#160;\u00bb&#160;?&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u00ab&#160;Parfois Kolesnitchouk apportait d&rsquo;Odessa du maquereau fum\u00e9, de la <em>brynza<\/em> (fromage de brebis) dans un bocal d&rsquo;eau et une dizaine d&rsquo;aubergines bleues qu&rsquo;il appelait tendrement \u00e0 la mani\u00e8re m\u00e9ridionale, des \u201cbluettes\u201d&#160;\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dans <em>Les Catacombes d\u2019Odessa<\/em>, publi\u00e9 pour la premi\u00e8re fois dans <em>Izvestia<\/em> en 1945, traduit en fran\u00e7ais en 1951, il raconte la r\u00e9sistance bolch\u00e9vique et la lib\u00e9ration d\u2019Odessa en avril 1944. Les catacombes d\u2019Odessa sont parmi les plus galeries souterraines du monde. Le r\u00e9cit est l\u2019occasion d\u2019un souvenir d\u2019enfance, l\u2019aubergine comme madeleine.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u00ab&#160;Papa \u00e9tait dans le ravissement. Il s&rsquo;\u00e9criait que c&rsquo;\u00e9tait l\u00e0 le meilleur manger du monde, la nourriture des Dieux&#160;!&#160;\u00bb Rien que \u00e7a, les aubergines, un mets divin&#160;? On pourrait croire que la m\u00e9moire du palais de Kata\u00efev lui joue des tours. Mais en r\u00e9alit\u00e9 il ne parle pas exactement des \u00ab&#160;bluettes&#160;\u00bb. Pas encore. \u00ab&#160;Effectivement, le maquereau fum\u00e9 plaisait \u00e0 tous. Rien \u00e0 dire, il \u00e9tait de premi\u00e8re qualit\u00e9. Au vrai, en chemin, il s&rsquo;\u00e9tait un peu ab\u00eem\u00e9 et sentait un peu. Mais, lorsque la peau fine comme une feuille d&rsquo;or \u00e9tait enlev\u00e9e et qu&rsquo;\u00e9tait mise \u00e0 nue la tendre et odorante chair fum\u00e9e, l&rsquo;eau en venait \u00e0 la bouche \u00e0 tout le monde.&#160;\u00bb&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Et les aubergines&#160;?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u00ab&#160;Pour ce qui est de la <em>brynza<\/em> et des \u2018bluettes\u2019, elles n&rsquo;avaient d\u00e9cid\u00e9ment de succ\u00e8s aupr\u00e8s de personne, papa mis \u00e0 part.&#160;\u00bb C\u2019\u00e9tait donc le plat du p\u00e8re&#160;; cette madeleine a pour Kata\u00efev un go\u00fbt paternel. Il n\u2019y a que lui qui aimait les aubergines et que lui qui savait les pr\u00e9parer. \u00ab&#160;La brynza puait le mouton et on l&#8217;emportait \u00e0 la cuisine. Et ce qu&rsquo;il fallait faire des \u2018bluettes\u2019, personne \u00e0 la maison, papa mis \u00e0 part, ne le savait. Maman et la femme de m\u00e9nage, avec un sourire d\u00e9daigneux, tournaient dans leurs doigts les myst\u00e9rieux l\u00e9gumes.&#160;\u00bb Myst\u00e9rieux, car le regard po\u00e9tique du p\u00e8re voit en ces l\u00e9gumes mal aim\u00e9s autre chose, une couleur, une mer \u2014 peut-\u00eatre la Mer noire, celle d\u2019Odessa.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u00ab&#160;Ils \u00e9taient, ces l\u00e9gumes, effectivement bleus, \u00e0 dire mieux d&rsquo;un lilas fonc\u00e9, presque noirs, glac\u00e9s, comme du cuir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u2013 Dieu me pardonne&#160;! Ce sont de dr\u00f4les d&rsquo;objets, disait la femme de m\u00e9nage avec une moue. Est-ce que \u00e7a peut se manger&#160;? C&rsquo;est peut-\u00eatre du poison.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Papa demeurait inflexible. Il exigeait qu&rsquo;on f\u00eet sur-le-champ avec les \u2018bluettes\u2019 de la pur\u00e9e d&rsquo;aubergines.&#160;\u00bb Mais pas n\u2019importe laquelle. \u00ab&#160;Non pas cette bouillie jaun\u00e2tre et fade qu&rsquo;on vend dans les magasins de conserves.&#160;\u00bb Non, il s\u2019agit ici de \u00ab&#160;la vraie, celle qu&rsquo;on fait chez soi, la pur\u00e9e d&rsquo;aubergines d&rsquo;Odessa, verte, \u00e0 l&rsquo;oignon, avec du vinaigre et de l&rsquo;ail, d&rsquo;une force diabolique, qui vous laisse des ger\u00e7ures aux l\u00e8vres.&#160;\u00bb&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Maintenant que vous connaissez les ingr\u00e9dients, que vous savez ce que vous voulez et ce que vous ne voulez pas, voici ce qu\u2019il faut faire. Attention, la concentration et la pr\u00e9cision sont de mise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u00ab&#160;Pour pr\u00e9parer cette pur\u00e9e-l\u00e0, il ne faut sans doute ni faire bouillir l&rsquo;aubergine, ni la cuire \u00e0 la cocotte, ni la griller \u00e0 la po\u00eale, mais la cuire dans de la braise de bois. Une fois grill\u00e9es, les \u2018bluettes\u2019 se couvrent d&rsquo;une cro\u00fbte charbonneuse. Alors on les \u00e9pluche. On hache menu la pulpe verte, mi-crue, fumante, avec ses petites graines blanches.&#160;\u00bb Ici, prenez garde. \u00ab&#160;Seulement Dieu vous garde de hacher avec un couteau ou un hachoir&#160;! Au contact du fer, la pulpe perd sa couleur verte, naturelle, et alors la pur\u00e9e est bonne \u00e0 jeter. Il faut hacher les aubergines avec un couteau de bois, et pas autrement&#160;! Alors on obtient la vraie pur\u00e9e d&rsquo;aubergines \u00e0 la fa\u00e7on d&rsquo;Odessa.&#160;\u00bb<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>La pur\u00e9e d\u2019aubergine \u00e9tait la madeleine de Valentin Kata\u00efev, Odessa, son go\u00fbt retrouv\u00e9.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"featured_media":354060,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":true,"_trash_the_other_posts":false,"_yoast_wpseo_estimated-reading-time-minutes":4,"_lgc_tts_voice":"","_lgc_tts_publish":false,"_lgc_tts_history_item_id":"","_lgc_tts_generated_at":"","_lgc_tts_status":"","_lgc_tts_error":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[],"staff":[1631],"editorial_format":[4915],"week":[5105],"geo":[],"class_list":["post-354136","sunday","type-sunday","status-publish","hentry","staff-florent-zemmouche","editorial_format-cuisine"],"acf":{"_thumbnail_id":354060,"excerpt":"La pur\u00e9e d\u2019aubergine \u00e9tait la madeleine de Valentin Kata\u00efev, Odessa, son go\u00fbt retrouv\u00e9.","display_date":"","new_abstract":true},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.1.1 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>\u00a0Le go\u00fbt violet d\u2019Odessa | Le Grand Continent<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/legrandcontinent.eu\/fr\/dimanches\/le-gout-violet-dodessa\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"\u00a0Le go\u00fbt violet d\u2019Odessa | Le Grand Continent\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"La pur\u00e9e d\u2019aubergine \u00e9tait la madeleine de Valentin Kata\u00efev, Odessa, son go\u00fbt retrouv\u00e9.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/legrandcontinent.eu\/fr\/dimanches\/le-gout-violet-dodessa\/\" \/>\n<meta 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